MILAN THE SALONE
master edit by erica & faye toogood #milan2014
Celebrating fashion derived from hard industry rather than the fashion industry itself, Erica and Faye Toogood’s Master Edit collection reinterprets emblematic garments worn by honest tradesman through a rich plethora of material experimentation and shape exploration.
Weeding through the jungle that was Salone del Mobile, Fourisalone and an ever-growing attention to interdisciplinary models, Studio Toogood showcased it’s dynamic approach through furniture, ceramics and couture. As always, the maverick London-based practice’s concept-based designs pushed the limits of tactility, form and craft – ultimately communicating a well-rounded story with strong validation on all levels.
Next to Studio Toogood’s recently debuted Roly Poly Assemblage #4 furniture series – monumental fiberglass-cast daybeds, tables and chairs, extrapolated by a focal point geometric compilation weaving – Erica and Faye Toogood revealed their Master Edit coat collection. The beige to black gamut was displayed on a equally industry-inspired scenography.
Beyond glamorized craft culture – cottage industries – the sister design duo reevaluated the sturdy attire worn by tradesman today and in the past – beekeepers, roadsweeper, chemists, mechanics, milkman and couriers. Playing against the paradox of mass production and individuality, Erica and Faye equate the ‘treadmill’ of fashion’s season-based turn out with hard industry.
With such a straightforward aim, the duo developed a bespoke series of cloaks, trenches and topcoats. Each piece evokes a different occupation through distinctly cut shapes and laden material combinations. Fascinated by the value gained through ware and tare, Erica dipped oil-rigger iterations in black rubber and allowed a mechanic-inspired piece to crackle over time.
Adrian Madlener, a recent graduate of the Design Academy Eindhoven, is a designer turned journalist. Originally from Belgium, he grew up in New York where an early interest in architecture exposed him to a wide range of creative disciplines; everything from contemporary dance to fine art, and eventually design. During his studies in Eindhoven, Adrian discovered that his true calling lays within design theory, history, and criticism. Though writing is his best design tool, he still gains great satisfaction from sketching, modeling, and experimenting with material. The critic should create to critique.